How to Move a Fridge Freezer: A Step-by-Step Guide

To move a fridge freezer safely, defrost it 8-24 hours before the move, empty and clean it, wrap it in moving blankets and transport it upright on an appliance dolly. At the new home, let the fridge stand unplugged for 2-4 hours before you plug it in. A standard 60 cm fridge freezer weighs around 75 kg, and some American-style models go over 120 kg. Plan for at least two people and ratchet straps rated to a 250 kg working load limit.
When moving house, most of the risk to a fridge freezer sits in the compressor. It holds lubricating oil that has to stay in its sump, and if the refrigerator spends too long on its side, that oil runs into the cooling pipes. Switch it on too soon after that and the compressor can fail, leaving you with an unusable appliance before you have even unpacked the kitchen.
Can You Move a Fridge Freezer on Your Own?
No. Two people can do the task safely; one person can’t. Even a compact under-counter fridge weighs about 25 kg (the Beko UL4584W is 25.5 kg). That’s already the HSE guideline figure for an average man lifting close to the body at waist height. For women the guideline is 16 kg. These are guidelines rather than legal limits, but a refrigerator is bulky and you can’t hold it close. A 60 cm-wide 70/30 fridge freezer weighs around 75 kg, and American-style models are heavier still: the Samsung RS68A8842B1 weighs 123 kg.
Use three people for anything bigger than a standard 60 cm model, and for any route with stairs or tight doorways. London’s Victorian terraces are the classic case. The staircases are narrow and often turn 90 degrees at the landing, so a heavy appliance on a dolly has almost no room to manoeuvre. Trying that alone puts the fridge, the walls and your back at risk.
If you can’t find two capable helpers and an appliance dolly, book a professional fridge mover.
What You Need to Move a Fridge Freezer
Get the kit together before moving day so the fridge freezer can be safely moved without improvising. Rope and bedsheets grabbed at the last minute are how fridges and door frames get damaged.
Essential Equipment
- Appliance dolly, appliance trolley or heavy-duty sack truck, rated to at least 150 kg, with rubber tyres. A flat furniture dolly can’t tilt a heavy appliance back onto two wheels, so it’s no use on a staircase.
- Ratchet straps or moving straps, at least two, rated to a 250 kg working load limit (WLL). Bungee cords won’t hold a shifting load under braking, and heavy-duty ropes are a last resort: even knotted tight, rope stretches and slips.
- Moving blankets, the professional standard for protecting the finish, door seals and handles. Bubble wrap works for smaller units or as an extra layer over hinges.
- Stretch tape or packing tape (50 mm), for holding removable shelves and drawers in place and securing the wrapping. Keep it off stainless steel.
- Non-slip work gloves, for grip on smooth steel and glass door panels.
- Towels and a mop bucket. A manual-defrost freezer with heavy ice can release several litres of water overnight.
- Spirit level, for levelling the fridge at the new house.
- Bicarbonate of soda. Dissolved in warm water, it cleans the interior and removes odours.
Useful Extras
- Furniture sliders, for sliding the appliance across a tiled kitchen to avoid damage to the tiles.
- Cling film, for covering door handles where tape would mark the finish.
- A second appliance dolly, worth having if a washing machine is going on the same day.
Step 1: Switch Off and Defrost 8-24 Hours Before Moving
Switch the fridge freezer off at least 8 hours before moving house. If ice has built up inside the freezer, give it a full day. A frosted freezer thaws during transport, and the water ends up on the van floor and in your boxes.
Frost-free (No Frost) models, common across Bosch, Samsung and LG ranges, build up very little ice, so 8 hours is enough for the remaining moisture to drain. A manual-defrost model needs an overnight thaw.
How to Defrost Without Making a Mess
- Remove food first. Store food items that need chilling in a cool box with ice packs.
- Switch the appliance off at the wall and unplug it. Turning the thermostat to zero isn’t enough.
- Leave the freezer door open and lay towels or a shallow tray on the floor.
- Let the ice melt on its own. A heat gun or hairdryer can crack the plastic lining.
If your fridge has a water dispenser or ice maker, disconnect the water supply, drain the line and cap or tape the inlet. Otherwise the water left in the line will leak in the van.
Step 2: Empty and Clean the Fridge Freezer
Clean the fridge freezer inside and out once it’s empty and defrosted. Food residue sealed inside a refrigerator starts to smell within a few hours in a warm van, and the smell comes with you to your new home.
Inside the Fridge
Take out every loose part: removable shelves, salad drawers, door bins, ice trays and bottle racks. Anything left loose slides around during transport, and glass shelves break.
Wrap glass shelves in soft packing material, lay them flat in a box and label it “Fragile - Glass”. Plastic shelves and door bins can go either way:
- taped in place inside the fridge, which is fine for solid plastic parts on a short local move
- stored separately in labelled bags, which is the safer choice for a longer journey
Then wipe the interior with warm water and bicarbonate of soda to clear any odours.
Outside the Fridge
Wipe down the outside before you wrap it. Grease transfers to the padding, and when the covering shifts in transport it can scratch the finish. Use a stainless steel cleaner on steel doors and dry them fully.
Coil the power cord and tape it to the back of the unit so it can’t get caught under the wheels when you roll the appliance on the dolly.
Step 3: Wrap the Fridge Freezer in Moving Blankets
Cover all four sides and the top with at least one full layer of moving blankets before the refrigerator goes on the dolly. Secure the padding with stretch tape or cling film wound around it, not stuck to the fridge.
Blankets suit a full-size fridge freezer best. They’re thicker, protect the corners better and can be reused. Bubble wrap is fine for a small fridge or as an extra layer over handles and hinges.
Keeping the Fridge Door Shut
- The ratchet straps that hold the fridge on the dolly also keep the doors closed: one around the upper third, one around the lower third. They don’t put any strain on the hinges.
- On stainless steel, cover the handles in cling film first and run the straps over it.
- Never tape directly onto stainless steel. Even low-tack tape can leave adhesive marks that need specialist cleaning.
Leave the ventilation grilles at the back or base uncovered, especially if the appliance will be stored wrapped.
Step 4: Move the Fridge Freezer Upright on an Appliance Dolly
Keep the fridge freezer in an upright position for the whole move. Upright, the compressor oil stays in the sump. On its side, or tipped at a steep angle for more than a few minutes, the oil can run into the refrigerant lines and cause a permanent fault in the refrigerator’s cooling system.
Never drag or walk a fridge across the floor without a dolly. To load it:
- Stand the appliance dolly against the side or back of the fridge (never the doors) and slide the toe plate under the base.
- Strap the unit to the dolly at the upper and lower third. Tighten until firm, not crushing.
- One person steadies the fridge from the front while the other tips the dolly back onto its wheels. Keep the angle shallow.
- The person on the handles steers. The person at the front guides and watches the route.
- On stairs, the guide walks backwards, one step at a time. Both of you stop on every step and let the weight settle before moving on.
In a London flat with a goods lift, check the lift’s rated capacity with the building manager first. The lift has to carry the fridge and both of you, so don’t assume it will.
Step 5: Secure the Fridge Freezer in the Removal Van
Secure the fridge freezer to the van’s lash rails with at least two ratchet straps so it travels safely, and stand it against the front bulkhead (the wall behind the cab). Under braking, it is pushed against the bulkhead instead of tipping forward. An unsecured 90 kg refrigerator becomes a dangerous projectile in an emergency stop.
If you’re moving home with a full van, the appliance goes in first and comes out last. Put padding between it and the boxes next to it so nothing rubs, and don’t lay boxes or furniture on top. The same rules apply whether you transport a fridge freezer in a removal van or a hired moving truck.
On a hot day, avoid leaving the van parked in direct sunlight with the fridge inside. And take speed bumps slowly: London’s residential streets are full of them.
Step 6: Let the Fridge Stand Before Switching It On
How Long Should a Fridge Freezer Stand After Moving?
In most cases, 2-4 hours is enough. Leave the fridge freezer standing upright and unplugged for that long if it was transported upright, and wait at least 4 hours if it spent time on its side. This gives the compressor oil time to settle back into the sump before the motor starts.
| How the fridge was transported | Wait before you plug it in |
|---|---|
| Upright in the van (shallow tilt on the dolly only) | 2-4 hours |
| Tilted steeply or for a long stretch | 4 hours |
| Laid on its side | At least 4 hours; up to 24 hours if the manual gives no figure |
Advice online ranges from a few minutes to a full day, partly because manufacturers differ. Beko says at least 4 hours after a move. Samsung’s support guidance gives 2-3 hours after upright transport and at least 4 hours if the refrigerator was lying down. Your manual has the figure for your model. If you’re unsure, wait longer: starting the compressor before the oil has settled can damage it.
When Can You Put Food Back In?
Once you plug it back in, give the refrigerator several hours to cool down. Beko’s figure is up to 12 hours, so overnight is easiest. The Food Standards Agency recommends keeping the fridge at 5°C or below, and the freezer should reach -18°C. Food put back too early warms the interior, makes the cooling system work harder and can leave frozen food partly thawed.
Checks After Installation
- Level. Put a spirit level on the top panel and check side to side and front to back. Most refrigerators have adjustable feet; on many models, turning clockwise raises the appliance and anticlockwise lowers it.
- Door seals. Close the fridge door on a sheet of paper and pull. You should feel resistance. If the paper slides out freely, re-level the unit or adjust the seal.
- Clearance. Leave at least 5 cm between the condenser at the back and the wall (or whatever your manual specifies), and keep the refrigerator away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
Common Questions About Moving a Fridge Freezer
You can, but it isn’t a good idea. A freezer with heavy ice can release several litres of water during transport, soaking boxes and soft furnishings. Allow at least 8 hours for a frost-free model and a full day for a manual-defrost freezer.
Only if there’s no other way. Check the manual first: many manufacturers specify which side the refrigerator can lie on, and if you lay it on the wrong side you can damage the compressor or the refrigerant circuit. Never lay it flat on its back. Once it’s back in an upright position, wait at least 4 hours, or longer if the manual says so, before you plug it in.
Leave it standing upright for 2-4 hours if it was transported upright, and at least 4 hours if it was on its side. If you only pulled it out to clean behind it and it stayed upright, a few minutes is enough: LG, for example, says 5 minutes after a move within the same house.
At least 8 hours before the removal team arrives. For a morning move, switch the appliance off the evening before so it can defrost overnight and is ready to wrap.
Do both on the same day if you can. Empty and defrost the old fridge the night before, and have the appliance trolley ready for the outgoing and the incoming unit. Many retailers will take the old fridge freezer away when they deliver the new one, so check whether that’s included before you book a separate removal.
Upright, with two or three people. American-style side-by-side and French door models often weigh over 100 kg (the Samsung RS68A8842B1 is 123 kg). Drain the water line and empty the ice maker reservoir before the move. The van is rarely the problem when you transport a fridge this size: a long-wheelbase Ford Transit has about 139 cm between the wheel arches, and a typical American-style refrigerator is around 91 cm wide.
Removal companies in the UK usually include goods in transit (GIT) insurance, covering items up to a declared value per load. W & W Movers carry GIT insurance on every job, so ask about the policy limit when you get a quote. If you transport the fridge yourself in a hired van, arrange separate cover: standard van hire insurance covers the vehicle, not the cargo.
Should You Hire Professional Fridge Freezer Movers?
Hire a professional for any fridge freezer over about 60 kg, any route with stairs and any London flat with a narrow hallway or a small goods lift. Those are the jobs where a DIY attempt is most likely to damage the compressor, the fridge or your back.
W & W Movers’ fridge mover service covers London: a single appliance as a standalone job, or a fridge freezer as part of a full house move. Every crew brings a heavy-duty appliance dolly, ratchet straps rated to 500 kg and protective padding, and we plan the route through stairs, hallways and lifts before anything is lifted. Our teams work in Victorian terraces, mansion blocks and basement flats across West and Central London, and if you’re moving home, the fridge freezer travels properly secured alongside the rest of your furniture.
For a free quote, call 020 3282 1582 and tell us the fridge model and which floor it’s on.
